“I am going to the canteen to have something now, you give my proxy in the class !!”, I asked Barnali and hopped towards the college canteen.

It was raining. I travelled very early, and hardly had breakfast to college. This was in the late 90s. The 5.30 am local to Mednipore from Kharagpur was my everyday chariot.

After my early morning coaching class, I headed towards the Police Line Bus stand to board my college bus—that rainy morning. I reached college at 10 am and straightaway approached the college canteen. The breakfast time was over and lunchtime was yet to begin.

Shilpi Masi, our very own cook at the canteen, with a kind smile and twinkling eyes, was serving the last few ladles of steaming Ghugni to a queue of eager students. They were equally hungry, I guess.

I was the last one in the queue to get the plate. I asked for a Pauruti to pair with. I sat at the table in the corner and ate in peace. While looking around, as I relished the meal, I saw a faded photograph hanging on one of the walls. Curious about knowing her story, I struck up a conversation once others left for their class and I merrily bunked. She told me she has been selling Ghugni for over twenty years. She started the canteen 8 years ago, before that she used to work as a cook in people’s homes. “Ghugni is more than just food,” she said. “It’s a custom, a piece of our legacy.” She elucidated that her recipe was passed down from her grandmother, who used to make Ghugni for the entire village during festivals. She pointed at the photograph showing the young herself standing beside her grandmother, smiling as they stirred a large pot of Ghugni.

As she chatted, Masi deftly prepared another plate of Ghugni for me. The dish, made from Motor dal or yellow peas slow-cooked with spices, was neatly garnished with chopped onions, green, chillies, and a squeeze of lime. The first spoon was a revelation—a perfect blend of tangy, spicy, and savoury flavours. Masi continued, “You see, Ghugni is not just about the taste, it is about the affection and care that goes into making it. Every ingredient, every spice, says a story.”

I, as Bong have been relishing this dish in various forms. Especially when served in disposable Shaal leaf bowls at roadside stalls.

In the bustling streets of Kolkata, there is a special magic which gales through the air every evening. It is the aroma of Ghugni. It has been considered a street food with a special place in the hearts of Bengalis. I have witnessed this dish being served with so many different accompaniments. Bengalis treasure having it with Muri- Puffed Rice and Pauruti – Milk Bread. Another famous accompaniment is the Petai Pororta. This is a paratha almost a foot and a half in diameter, which is fried and then beaten into small pieces which gives the name Petai or beating.

Besides other accompaniments, the most famous is Kochuri. In some places, it is served with hard-boiled eggs too. How can I not mention the famous Mangsher Ghuhni? In that goes minced meat (preferably mutton) that is mostly prepared post-Dashami or during the Bijoya phase. The addition of keema makes it richer, flavourful, and more distinctive.

This is one of the most versatile preparations in a Bong kitchen. On one hand, it blends street food, but on the other, it is an incredulous meal that is a staple of Niramish(vegetarian) Bengali cuisine. No onion or garlic is added during the cooking process, and a small amount of Bhaja Moshla – roasted spice powder is added to the dish to enhance the aroma and flavour. This version is an important part of the Durga Pujo menu.

 Ghugni is an obsessional snack even in the villages of Bengal.

As I savoured the last bite, I realized that Ghugni was indeed more than just food. It was a connection to the past, a symbol of the community, and a testament to the enduring traditions of West Bengal.

Ingredients

• 1 cup motor dal (dried yellow peas)
• 1 medium potato cut into 1-centimetre cubes
• ½ cup onion finely chopped
• ½ cup tomato finely chopped
• 2 fresh green chilis finely chopped
• 1 tbsp tamarind pulp
• 1 tbsp garlic paste
• 1 tbsp ginger paste
• 1 tbsp turmeric powder
• 1 tsp coriander powder
• 1 tbsp cumin seed powder
• 1 tsp red chilli powder
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 green cardamoms
• 2 cloves
• 1 small cinnamon stick
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 2 tbsp mustard oil
• 2 cups water to cook the dal
• 2-3 tsp Bhaja Moshala^* for garnishing
• 1 tbsp sugar
• salt to taste

Get Cooking !!

1. Soak the Motor dal overnight or for 8 hours, so that it plumps up
2. Transfer this to a pressure cooker, and add a tsp of salt and the turmeric. Cook until the dal/peas soften
3. Heat the oil until it smokes, then lower the flame and add the whole spices. Once they become fragrant add the sliced onions
4. When onions turn light brown, add the chilis along with the ginger and garlic pastes. Fry until their raw smell goes off
5. Add the potatoes and stir fry for 5-6 minutes. Next, add all the spice powders and sugar along with the salt and 3-4 tbsp of water
6. Cook for 2-3 minutes and then add the tomatoes and wait until they soften
7. Next pour in the cooked Motor Dal(dried yellow peas), and tamarind paste and give it a good mix. Then add ¾ cups of water and simmer on medium heat for another 10-15 minutes. Check for salt, and adjust if needed
8. Turn the flame off and add theBhaja Moshla.Let it sit covered for 5-7 minutes
9. Serve your Ghugni, hot with some chopped chilis, onions and coriander leaves.

Tips on Making Ghugni

• The chutneys and spices in the Ghugni chaat should not be used thoughtlessly. Never overdo the spices.
• To avoid mushy peas, be mindful not to overcook the Ghugni . This should take no more than 13 to 15 mins of cooking time.
• Only add onions, tomatoes, and other garnishes before serving when making Ghugni chaat and not in advance.
• The overnight soaking of the peas is the most crucial process when creating a delicious Ghugni chaat. Keep in mind that if you skip this step, the peas won’t cook correctly.
• The gravy should be neither too thick nor too watery. While preparing the gravy, take extra care while adding water since it should be of a medium consistency.
• The Bhaja Mosala should not be omitted in any instance. Ghugni chaat’s taste is heavily dependent on this ingredient.